Culture

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Must have Portuguese drinks

Chriselle Bayross May 4, 2019

Portugal’s best kept secret

By far Lisbon is one of my favourite cities. I cannot wait to visit again. One of the quaint features of Lisbon, is the tiny little bars at every street corner. Like our Indian ‘Tapris’ however, instead of Chai (tea), they serve alcohol! What a concept right? With this article I will highlight some of the must have Portuguese drinks, when you visit the country. Before my trip, everyone recommended the port wine. However, two other portuguese drinks were the highlight for me.

Enjoying Ginjinha liquor, bought from Lisbon, back in Mumbai. This should be a must have when you are exploring Portuguese drinks.
Opening my bottle of Ginjinha in Mumbai

Ginjinha– The Ninja of Cherry liqueurs

Nobody tells you about this very special alcohol –Ginjinha!  The ‘unofficial’ official drink of Lisbon. Maybe you have had cherry liqueur before, but I can guarantee that you have not had anything till you have the Portuguese one! This Portuguese drink is made by infusing Ginja berries in alcohol and adding sugar and other ingredients to it. Served in little plastic cups, on the streets, it is full of flavour.  Have the one with real cherries at the bottom, it will give you a good kick! Locals have this drink throughout the day. We had it on a windy, cold day in the city and it set us in the right mood for the rest of the evening 

Pro Tip: Look for the places that serve the Ginjinha in a chocolate cup, the two together will get you swooning!

Check out Moscatel

Moscatel is another drink you should be looking for. Unlike Ginjinha, it is had throughout Portugal and is the real winner. At first I thought Portuguese drinks consisted only of Port, but the Moscatel I tasted here, took it up a notch. Moscatel has a lighter more citrus flavour. It makes for a great drink after a meal. Hence I bought back 2 bottles for my ‘mae’ and she is still raving about it!

View of Quinta da Bomfim winery from the river different
View of Quinta da Bomfim winery and vineyards beyond, from the river

Porto – the wine producing region of Portugal

These days the Portuguese don’t want to focus on their Port wine. They would prefer you taste their world class wines. Also it’s good to note that the wines in Portugal, come from the north, given the hilly region as compared to the beaches in the south. Porto, in the North, is the second largest city after Lisbon. Port wine is named after Porto, given all the wine producing regions here.

Wine tasting at Quinta da Bomfim in the Douro valley,Portuguese drinks namely their wine are truly world class
Wine tasting at Quinta Da Bomfim

Must Visit- Douro valley & Quinta Da Bomfin

I went for a local wine tasting tour from Porto. We visited the Douro valley, which should not be missed. There are a lot of Vineyards in the Douro valley and‘Quinta da Bomfim’ is one of the oldest, going back to the 17thcentury. Thus, it is one with the largest land holding in the region. We tasted a LOT of wine on the tour. Considering the amount of wine I tasted I have no specific recommendation. However I can tell you, enjoying well-made wine in the beautiful hills of Douro is definitely worth it! 

If you want to read my post on eating like the locals in Portugal: Click here             

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Take a Heritage walk in Mumbai city

Chriselle Bayross April 23, 2019
Mumbai heritage buildings are largely in Art Deco style. These buildings can be seen around Fort and Marine Drive
The Art Deco buildings at Marine Drive
  1. The Taj Mahal hotel in South Mumbai has an image trademark for the design of its building.
  2. The Rajabai Tower modelled after the Big Ben in England, was added to the World Heritage Sites in 2018. As the story goes, construction of the tower was donated by Premchand Roychand a prosperous broker. It was for his blind mother (and her eponym) and the chiming of the clock tower made her aware of the time.
  3. There are two prominent style of buildings in South Mumbai, Art Deco and Victorian style. Eros and Regal, the last remaining single screen theatres, are built in Art Deco style.

These are just few of the details we learnt on Mumbai heritage, one weekend this April on a Khaki Tour. All thanks to my friend Gargee a history buff and someone who conducts her own walks in Mumbai (stay tuned for details). She wanted a birthday gift we could experience together. 

Why is heritage important

Heritage of a city provides it with an identity and a way of remembering. Hence it is good to know that there are many heritage buildings in Mumbai that are UNESCO protected. It is my hope that my grandchildren will see them one day.

As an Indian, the attacks we have had on our monuments and people, has established that we are living on borrowed time. We need to treasure what we have around us. More importantly we need to make the right choices that we may live in a more equitable world. In Mumbai, itself we are spending crores on structures in the middle of the sea. I think it is more important to use that money to preserve our marine resources. Monuments should not define a generation or be a tick off your bucket list.

Bombay Vintage 

We ended our day quite serendipitously at a place that was serving Mumbai fare. Bombay Vintage a restaurant that as the name suggests, serves dishes from different Indian communities. Since we had a friend observing lent we tried both the veg and non-veg options at this restaurant. While the dishes maybe similar to the fare in Indian kitchens the prices are not. They are normal Mumbai rates which would be approximately 1500 Rs. per head with drinks.

Experiencing Mumbai through its food

Vagerla Channa is a spicy Gujarati style salad, an ode to the business community in Mumbai
The Vagarela Channa Salad

For starters, we had Vagarela Channa(type of legume) Salad– Gujarathi style– with channa dal, raw mango tempering. This was as Chatpata (Spicy) as the city of Mumbai and just as tasty.

Malabari syro beef fry tempered with curry leaf and roasted coconut is not to be missed
Malabari syro beef fry

We also went with the Mouthwatering Malabari syro beef fry: Roast beef tempered with curry leaf and roasted coconut. This particular recipe is a Syrian Christian invention and it did not disappoint

Parsi Jardalu Salli Boti dish is part of Mumbai heritage along with Mumbai's buildings
The famous Jardalu Salli Boti

For the mains, we had Jardalu Salli Boti(Mutton and apricot with potato sticks),which was apt for the evening given that it Is a famous Parsi dish. On our tour, we received an education about the Tata buildings. This included the exclusively European hotel that Mr. JRD Tata was denied entry to because he was Indian. Story goes that it was this incident that prompted him to build the famous Taj group of hotels. Similarly, we also saw buildings built by the wealthy Parsi Mr. ReadyMoney as well. Parsi seemed to be flavor of the evening.

The Bharli Vangi is a traditional Maharastrian dish and quite tasty
The Bharli Vangi from the Konkan coast

Bharli Vangi (Stuffed Brinjal): Traditional Konkan stuffed eggplant dish cooked in a spiced peanut sauce. However, Gargee who is from the Konkan coast felt that the dish was not true to the recipe but tasty nonetheless.

As a Mumbaikar (native of Mumbai) I love the fact that I am from one of the most cosmopolitan cities in India and feel grateful to be born here where my accessibility and mobility is high. Still I do not want to take for granted the metamorphosis this city undergoes, because tomorrow it may not land on its feet. Hence I hope that this article encourages more people to take an interest in Mumbai heritage and support its preservation. Though it should not be at the sake of the resources themselves. 

Pro tip:Khaki Tours open bus tours is great for travelling with the elderly. As compared to walking tours, it is a pleasant drive around, on top of the bus, even in summer.

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Have an authentic shopping experience in Kutch

Chriselle Bayross April 23, 2019
The pretty Hiralal Memorial Craft Park (shopping complex) at Bhujodi
The pretty Hiralaxmi Memorial Craft Park (shopping complex)

Recently we had an authentic shopping experience that I am excited to recount. In Feb, this year we visited the Rann of Kutch and shopped for handicrafts. Located in Kutch in Gujarat it is a hotbed of handmade products like jewelry, home furnishing, kurtas etc. The best part is that you can buy directly from the artisans. If you read my previous blog you will know that we lived in Hodka village and bought our goods locally. We also bought products from Hiralaxmi Memorial Craft Park,the Handicraft center, in Bhujodi that sources products from all over Gujarat. 

The friendly villagers and artisans of Hodka village where we bought handicrafts
The little artists of Hodka village

Gujarati hospitality is legendary, hence In Hodka, where we were staying, the entire village came to show us their products. The children were especially cute. We were set up in one of the villager’s house, in traditional ‘Bhunga’ style and sitting on a charpoy, we could choose from all the products. The villagers offered us tea (which many small businesses across India do) and were made to feel at home. While the artisans maybe exposed to people from all over the world it was refreshing to buy from them. 

Can you put a price tag on art?

I was in awe of the handwork. The local women wear long tunics and skirts completely covered in hand embroidery and mirror work. To say that they are talented is an understatement. 

    The colourful handicrafts on display at Hodka village
    The colorful handicrafts on display

    Apparently, you can put a price tag on art. Here I have a small anecdote to share: The villagers offered us silver jewellery to buy. It was not real silver, however the design was unique. I was pushing my friends not to bargain as I was 100% sure you would not get the same design in Mumbai. I was promptly ejected out of the room. Tell me what would you do in my place?

    Handicrafts to buy in Kutch: 

    Ladies and gents, while this is not an extensive list, we have you covered. By a quorum of 4 we have divided the products into must buys and optional things you can pick up:

    The diverse handicrafts of Kutch
    The beautiful handicrafts of Kutch on display

    MUST BUYS

    Mashru Shawls: The Mashru Shawls look smart and are versatile to wear for different occasions. Besides, Mashru fabric is made of silk and cotton making it appropriate for summer . Available at Bhujodi

    Furnishings: One can pick up Bed covers/Pillow covers/Table cloths/ wall hangings all with lovely Indian motifs in good quality cotton.However, beware, one of us tried to wash the bed covers and the color ran.

    Khadi material for the boys: The Khadi material store at Bhujodi had affordable material that was also great for the summer. We bought it for one of our fathers and he stitched it into a kurta.

    Silver Jewelry:The silver jewelry designs are unique tribal designs and worth the buy just for that. We bought from Hodka village and bargained hard for them.

    Bird Whistles: These are available in clay/ceramic and make eccentric gifts. Dip them in water and then use them and it will sound like the chirping of birds. These products were only available at the Rann Utsav.

    OPTIONAL BUYS:

    Gujarati Shawls: These are in distinct Gujarati style, if you have too many shawls, you can give these a pass.

    Handmade toys: We picked up handmade cloth toys like camels and horses that make great gifts for children

    Bead work jewelry: Made by the young girls in the village, some of the styles were quite funky . Hence, I had to buy them.

    Copper Décor:I picked up a copper wind chime (pictured) from Bhujodi. It was atleast 80% less than what it would cost in Mumbai. It’s currently hanging in my balcony.

    Whenever I visit a new place I always search about what things I can buy. It adds to the anticipation of the trip. I would highly recommend the experience of buying directly from the village. But whether you buy or not the whole experience is priceless.

    Pro tip:You can bargain. However even at MRP all the products we bought were atleast 50% less than what we would buy from online/Mumbai.

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    Take a road trip with ‘Tripling’

    Chriselle Bayross April 16, 2019
    Us on a road trip a long time back, Tripling making me very nostalgic.
    One of the many road trips taken with friends over the years

    Roadtrips as part of growing up

    Growing up I took many roadtrips with friends. Once I remember we visited Lonavla, during the monsoon. We ran into these gorgeous guys from the National Defence Academy (NDA), who sadly we never met again. But the weather was beautiful and that lifted our spirits. But this trip is one we keep talking about. Because our friendship was cemented at that moment and many moments later, on similar trips, with nothing but the road and the radio to accompany us. This shared experience continues to connect us many years later.

    Indian stories have compelling content

    There is no wonder then that one of my feel good shows for the summer is TVF’s ‘Tripling’. Set to the backdrop of a roadtrip the show follows the lives of 3 siblings, Chandan, Chanchal and Chitwan as they navigate life together and in the process, find themselves. They do this mostly while driving around in their car. 

    For some background, when streaming platforms came to India, they recognized that there was a market for regional language content. Indian writers were soon developing good content.And my first introduction, was through ‘Tripling’. There is a reason why this is my first tryst with Indian writing for a web series. 

    Akarsh (The Tripling writer) has been expanding my cultural universe since a decade. I know him as the easy going fellow who always sees humor in situations, has cool friends and has married my Parsi bestie.  I have a feeling though, going on a road trip with Akarsh would be a little like the series 😉 

    Why you need to watch Tripling

    But the point is I would want a real-life road trip like this. Always some action, drama and romance. Also, who doesn’t love roadtrips that feature our gorgeous country?  The second season of Tripling travels to Kolkata and Sikkim, just to name a few of the places. And don’t we all talk about taking roadtrips with family and friends. It’s the stuff that dreams are made off.

    Its a new season of Tripling

    While the first season had the siblings travelling together to meet their parents, with all possible madness ensuing. The second season that released this April is equally hilarious. The trio set out to find Chanchal’s husband who has mysteriously disappeared. It is nice to see the characters getting fleshed out in the second season.Of course, it cannot be as simple as that. I don’t want to give away too much information, but, go watch it. It’s an engaging, slice of life series with exaggerated twists and funny dialogues.

    Kudos to the writer duo for tapping into the memories and magic that roadtrips evoke. Sometimes all it takes is the open road and your people for everything to make sense again.

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    Alluring Rann of Kutch

    Chriselle Bayross April 11, 2019
    Rann of Kutch salt pans
    The great white desert

    After travelling a lot more in India, I realised that my own country was not only affordable but one of the loveliest to explore. The Rann of Kutch is no exception. I remember photographs of friends taken there, quite a few years back. Since then I have always wanted to visit this place. In 2019, I finally got the opportunity.

    Think twice before going

    The Rann of Kutch is approximately 620kms flight away from Mumbai so it’s quite a trip. The climate is harsh. Since we visited in Feb we had better weather, winter was still around. While it was hot and sunny during the day, the nights were cold. However, we were assured that December was worse.

    Given the distance there are two ways to travel to Kutch, from Ahmedabad or Bhuj. Direct flights to Bhuj are expensive though convenient. It is the district capital and close to Kutch. But with a little bit of stretch, you can take a train/flight to Ahmedabad and then a bus to Bhuj and onwards to Kutch. Just to give you an idea coming from Ahmedabad it is half the cost of the direct flight but easily double the time. We exercised the latter option.

    Don’t think at all just go

    Despite the inconvenience of getting there (especially if you use the scenic route) I realised that Gujarat culture is worth exploring: 

    Local Gujarat costume
    We tried on the local costume

    Gujarat Handicrafts:The one thing that should be on your list to buy is the handicrafts available in the region. They are not as expensive as in the metros. I have dedicated an entire blog to this because the handicrafts are so interesting and diverse.

    The whole shopping experience:The best part is that you go to the village from where they are made and shop for the products. It’s a different experience to buy from the artisans directly. Since we lived in Hodka village we went next door and bought some pretty things. They were hospitable and many members of the village came to meet us and offered us tea. It became like shopping from your neighbours.

    Bhungas at Vodka village
    The Bhungas at Hodka village

    Experience the Kutch culture:Most of the resorts are run by locals and they make sure you have an authentic experience. You get to live in Bhungas or circular houses made of mud, with thatched roofs. They are supposed to be structurally stable during earthquakes and climate responsive. The pure vegetarian food is what the locals eat. Here I must relate an anecdote :

    Eating Non-Veg food in Gujarat

    Our driver happened to be Muslim and we became friends. While complaining about the lack of non-veg food we requested him to take us to a good place for non-veg. He took us up on the offer.In a little non-descript place called Luckys (no relation to our bandra stalwart) we ate some great mutton biryani. The meat was actually falling of the bone as well as chicken and paratha that was lip smacking good. Hence this was the surprise element of the trip, our wish of getting a good non-veg meal fulfilled in a staunchly veg place like Gujarat. Talk about Indian jugaad (flexible approach to problem solving)! 

    Last but not least

    Evening sets at the Rann of Kutch
    Sunsets at the Rann of Kutch

    The Landscape: The great Rann of Kutch is a landscape, I had neither seen nor experienced before. You see nothing but white plains (the salt pans) as far as the eye can see. Definitely visit during sunrise and sunset. As this is the time that you feel the impact of the vastness. Everything begins to make sense. The sun rises as if from the ground and it is the only thing you can focus on. You wonder if you walk upto it, can you touch it? No picture or video can do it justice. Watching this scene alone will make the trip worth it.

    Vijay Vilas Palace at Bhuj
    Love this shot from the Vijay Vilas Palace at Bhuj

    Bhuj Attractions: There is not much to see around Kutch with the main attractions in Bhuj.So, the first day as we arrived we travelled back to Bhuj from where our friends were taking their plane. We did some sightseeing at the Vijay Vilas palace and the Mandvi beach. Both places were lovely. There is also a cultural centre at Bhujodi that was not far off where we shopped! More on that later.

    Lastly don’t worry about the Rann Utsav(Festival) we missed most of it, but it looked like a big shopping mela. Exploring the villages like we did is something I would choose over that anytime. So as Amitabh Bachhan says hope you guys are encouraged to ‘Breathe in a bit of Gujarat’ with this article. 



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